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Visiting the towns dotting the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay is a bit like stepping through Alice's mirror into a different era.
Tangier Island , a stamp sized parcel of land 3' above sea level in the middle of the bay, is a flash back to life in the 1700's. About the only thing new is motors in the boats but crabbing and oystering go on as about the only things to do there. Three or four names dominate the monuments in the cemeteries and the natives treat visitors as long lost friends.
Fifty miles up Pocomoke Sound and then the twisting Pokomoke river is Pokomoke City lodged in the middle of the Delmarva peninsula and reflecting the dual cultures of the Bay and "Shore" being but a few miles from Ocean city. A remarkably clean town with streets lined with charming old 19th century homes and friendly locals happy to engage in conversation about any era or aspect of their split personality. Pokomoke provides free docking with water and electricity on a well maintained dock stretching 1/4 mile along a lush waterfront park.
Back down the river and sound 40 miles (the last 2 hours quite bumpy as we rolled to a NW sea constrained in a narrow channel) to Onancock. Another neat little town with deep roots in revolutionary history. Arriving on a blustery weekend day at a quite "small" town marina we were entertained with all sorts of boat handeling acrobatics as skilled and unskilled boaters were tested by the winds, currents, tides and limited space. We were part of the show as we avoided drifting into a boat eating steel bridge downwind and close to our slip. We shot the boat into our appointed slip only to become jammed between the reported 13' (our beam width)pilings. Needing about 100 of our 150hp to extricate ourselves we serenely backed out and drifted to the adjacent "13'"slip and glided in with room to spare. Admiral's note .... very impressive!!
We attend church at a 200 year old Onancock Baptist church (now standing empty in fresh white clapbord) as members congregate in the new modern building just behind. The Sunday School class loved on us like we were rich relatives and the church service reflected similar warmth. This warmth is reflected outside the church as EVERYONE waves to EVERYONE on foot or riding bikes or in cars as they pass throughout the town. We sat on a bench on the main street enchanted by this phenomenon.
The next day we were off 30 miles directly across the Bay to Kilmarnock,Va where Larry's mother was born and raised. Larry's grandfather was a waterman for forty years before marrying and we were anxious to see if we could get some clues to his and the family lifestyle. Kilmarnock is still a quite small town now with many "come heres" but still a lot of pride in it's heritage. After a 2 mile bicycle ride to town (mostly up hill) we found a very helpful lady at the library who pointed us to some books on the town's history and in but a few minutes Larry found a picture of his mother taken in a 5th grade class picture at the grade school. We also picked up some valuable leads on other sources of information on grandfather's life as a waterman.
After a magnificent sunset seen from our anchorage in a delightful small cove and a nights rest we headed back to the Solomons at dawn a bit nervous about the six and one half hour run having seen mostly rough water the previous moving days. However God was good and we flew up the Bay with a gentle following breeze and sea.
All in all a great mini-cruise, 200 or so miles of Bay beauty and atmosphere with the boat humming along without missing a beat.
Joan is off to Montana mid month for a class reunion in Libby (someone notify Homeland Security!!) and then we hope to take another ten dayer possibly to the central eastern shore.
WELLLLLWe could say we were too busy all winter to finish posting our pictures from last year.
Then maybe we could say we lost them.
Hmmm, but you would know better so lets just tell the truth that we procrastinated away seven months. Not a world record but close.
At any rate the pictures from Waterford NY back to the Solomons are posted at picasaweb.google.com/lropka in the album "Waterford to Solomons"
It was a fun ride down the Hudson River in the early fall high lighted by a night anchored in the shadow of the Statue of Liberty and a rough little passage from there to Manasaquan NJ along the Atlantic Coast.
We are aboard CHARIS in the Solomons now (June 09) and finally catching up. More stuff from our trek from home and relaunch is in the album "Heading Out 04/08
The crew of Charis escaped the surly bonds of Ft Walton on 27 April 09 and land cruised via camper to the Solomons to find CHARIS snug and in fine shape after a winter in her shrink wrap. Thank goodness the bottom did not need sanding this year so 3 days of painting and touch up and in the water she went on 12 May.
The crew "coasted" through most of May getting settled in and putting things away in places where they will never be found. An hour voyage and overnight in St. Leonard Creek found all systems in working order.
The pace picked up as we prepared for the arrival of Joan's brother, John and sister-in-law Paula, who arrived 2 June and were greeted by two days of torrential rain. Never the less, we threw off the lines and headed for St Leonard Creek and then into Mill Creek getting in practice for a run across the bay. We were able to get a quick dinghy ride between rain drops. The sun finally came out and we were off on a delightful 3 day cruise across the bay to Oxford and St Michaels in almost ideal conditions. Nice dinghy trips, walks, sightseeing, dinners aboard and ice cream cones ashore punctuated the days and a great time was had by all. Continued cool weather afforded a last day trip to DC to cruise the mall on bikes and take in the spring grandure of our nation's capitol.
Fast on the heels of John and Paula's departure was the arrival of Vicki Thornell and Margret Henry having taken a detour from their trip from FWB to Ohio. The tide was a bit high so they were dinghyed (is there such a word) aboard. We managed to make an over night at anchor in St. Leonard Creek with a real dinghy ride up the inlets, a cool glass of tea at Vera's and upon return to the dock, a crab cake lunch at the Pier.
Sat the Japanese PBS crew arrived to interview Larry about a Tibetian caper some 50 years ago, which sent the girls on an exciting tour of all Joan's hangouts .... laundramat, grocery store, park, Navy rec center, etc.
Sunday, as we waved the girls good-bye as we waved hello to Gail and Butch Nelson who came over for lunch at Woodburns. Another brief dinghy ride and of course, the traditional ice cream cone on the boardwalk.
A call earlier from George Jolly saying he was coming too, so Tues evening Larry picked him up at the Holiday Inn dock. We had a delightful evening catching up on all happenings back in FWB.
Would you believe that in 2 years of cruising we have had two folks aboard for the night .... what happened? Loved every moment.
After more than 5000 miles and 650 hours under way the past two summers, we are slowing down and hope to simply explore some of the many cruising destinations the Chesapeake Bay has to offer. Included will be 10 days or so in Washington some time in Aug. Pictures and tales will be considerably less dramatic than the last years but still showing this life we so enjoy.
We are up to date as of this moment. Pictures can be found at picasaweb.google.com/lropka
Marker #1 at Waterford, NY where Charis crosses our northbound wake completing 800 miles of cruising on some of the most beautiful canals, rivers and lakes in the world.
Lots of water under the keel since our last post. Leaving Ottowa we slipped down a flight of 9 locks taking 2 1/2 hours into the Ottowa River ending the day in Montebello where we tied up at their marina in front of the largest log building (resort hotel) in the world. A really unique and charming place. Then on to Sainte Anne de Beauville and a drop of 65' in a massive lock. Then to Montreal where we stayed 3 days literally right in the center of the charming old town. Our stay was highlighted by a morning at the big city block farmers maket rivaling those of Pennsylvania Dutch country.
Then on to Sorel turning the corner and heading south 60 miles down the Richelieu to Lake Champlain which included about 30 miles on the Chambly Canal, about 20yds wide and truely a unique experience terminating at Sainte-Jean Sur Richelieu at the head of Lake Champlain. There we were treated with a major hot air baloon fly over. Crossing Lake Champlain, we stopped for one night at Wesport NY, a pretty little resort area, from there to the Champlain Canal and 100 miles to Waterford NY completing the triangle.
We have rested up here for three days and will head on down the Hudson River tomorrow, Sunday, begining a three day run to New York City thence onto the the New Jersey Coast and into the Delaware Bay.
We hope to be back in the Chesapeake in about ten days or so and look forward to a few lazy days remembering our summer and cleaning up the 1800 or so miles of grime and nicks and bruises on the boat.
Once again words seem inadequate to tell our tale and we will let the pictures at picasaweb.google.com/lropka do the talking. (Over 400 pictures have been taken and the Admiral has to do some major pruning .... we will put them up in several batches as they get done. The Admiral tends to take a picture and find a second later there is a better shot and then another better shot and .....)
Admiral's note: The Ottawa flight is thrilling as you get into the first lock with the bow of the boat looking out into space. You are certain that this is the edge of the world. A cruise like this is so packed with fun, scenes, interesting people, beauty, etc that it needs to be done at least a couple more times ... Captain are you listening ;-)
The first batch is up @ Montebella - Montreal - Sorel at picasaweb.google.com/lropka
The second batch is up @ Sorel - Waterford Ny at picasaweb.google.com/lropka
All too soon our time on the Rideau Canal comes to an end as we descend the nine flight of locks to the Ottowa river below.
We are in Montreal, our first Wifi hot spot since the Westport about mid Rideau canal. The canal continued to be a joy and we serendipitously found ourselves in the heart of Ottowa for the celebration of the designation of the Rideau as a World Heritage site, rather like a modern version of the Seven Wonders of the world. The canal is most deserving and is truly a world class treasure. As usual we will let the pictures tell the story. Just too difficult to describe in words.
We will post Montreal later, a magnificent old world city where we are parked a stones throw from the heart of old town with all of it's charm and history.
Except for the almost daily rain the cruise continues to exceed our expectations and most of the more technical challenges behind us.
Tomorrow, 08/10 we will head for Sorel 40 miles down (Northeast) the St Lswrence Seaway where we turn south on the Richelieu Canal headed for Lake Champlain, 100 miles further south.
We should be back in daily internet range by next week. You will again find the pictures on picasaweb.google.com/lropka
God has given us this magnificent and unique Rideau Canal area and then failed to give us words or cameras capable of adequately portraying it's stunning beauty. It must be seen to be appreciated!
We have been moving along slowly, about ten miles and 4 up locks a day since leaving Kingston trying to soak up the beauty. The canal is quite shallow (6') in many areas and very narrow and twisted in others. The locks are groomed like a golf course and the lock masters and workers are more than courteous and helpful. Cruising along is like a slow motion ballet with new vistas of high rock cliffs and tree lined banks close at hand everywhere. Quaint "cottages" and villages dot the shore for color and the entire area seems to have been cleaned and tended.
We are in Westport Ontario about sixty miles west of Ottowa and plan about a week getting there. Then down the Ottowa and St Lawrence rivers to Sorel and the Richelieu Canals into Lake Champlain.
We should be back in the US around the the end of August and then move fairly quickly onto the
Chesapeake.
Joan has gone shutter happy with numerous pictures at our picasaweb.google.com/lropka site portraying what we are seeing and doing. No camera can do it justice.
Will post again when we can find the next wifi locale.
Admiral's note: We are just plain having a fine time ;-
Kingston, Ontario on the bow!
A lot of water and good times since our last blog.
The last few miles of the Erie and the Oswego Canals were a delight and the 60 mile crossing of
Lake Ontario could not have been better. After 29 locks and moving most days our aging bones were a bit weary so we holed up in Clayton, NY for three days to recharge and get some welcome rest. Clayton is a neat little town with a magnificent maritime museum dedicated to classic boats primarily wooden.
We went to a nice little Baptist Church Sunday which recharged our spiritual batteries as well.
Monday we took a three hour tour of the Thousand Islands on a small but fast pontoon boat and got to see (with narration) what would have taken us several days and many gallons of $5+ diesel for $12 each. The TI lived up to and exceeded their reputation and it was very special and rewarding to see how grand "Old Money" lived. It really makes the nouveau crowd look tacky.
Tuesday on to Kingston, an absolutely charming small city reminiscent of Victoria B.C. set with many ancient buildings downtown and flowers everwhere it has a true old world charm and populated with ever friendly Canadians, a marked difference in atmosphere from nearby states that will remain unnamed.
Tonight We are going to a tattoo at Fort Henry and then tomorrow up the Rideau Canal 125 miles and 44 locks to Ottawa. We will have spotty internet only at wifi hot spots for the next few weeks so reporting and pictures may be thin.
As usual the latest batch of pics is at Picasaweb.google.com/lriopka with the details of our adventure.
Visiting the towns dotting the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay is a bit like stepping through Alice's mirror into a different era.
